By: Nick Coltrain
Bavarian World offers something that’s missing from today’s dining experiences: simplicity and integrity.
There’s nothing like this German restaurant in any of the chains. There’s no rush to get on to the next diner, and there’s no waitress fretting over tip dollars so she can slam Jägerbombs the following weekend. And, perhaps most importantly, there’s minimal decoration on the walls.
The Bavarian World bakery offers traditional German food and quirky, down-home atmosphere for its customers. Photo by Casey Durkin.
It’s an authenticity that’s absent from most, if not all, restaurants in Reno. The entire experience of eating there is perfectly summed up in waitress and co-owner Lura Ginschel.
She’s one of the most welcoming people that you are likely ever to meet. She has a simple, unpretentious charisma that other waitresses would do well to mimic. In my two visits to the restaurant, she told the same story about almost dropping a platter of food twice, the same number of times she talked about burning her hands on the oven.
“Though it happens all the time,” she said both times, neither time drawing the gritted teeth usually associated with repeated stories.
It’s a heartfelt honesty that is reflected in the food, which, while delicious, is nothing compared to the atmosphere.
Bavarian World emphasizes sausage on its menu and deservedly so – they have more sausage than should rightfully exist. Veal sausage, chicken sausage, beef-and-basil sausage, long-and-skinny sausage and short-and-fat sausage galore! And none of it has the rubbery, processed aftertaste of the typical hot dog or sausage, which could likely draw a few converts to this delicious meat.
The sides keep the meal hearty. Aside from enough types of potatoes to make the sausage selection blush, don’t be surprised to receive a dollop of sauerkraut or cabbage next to your meal.
The potatoes are where it’s at, with scalloped potatoes, potato pancakes and even potato dumplings dominating the menu. The dumplings in particular reach a pinnacle of fluffiness and heartiness that was previously unheard of.
The basil-sprinkled dumpling was roughly the size of a grapefruit and went down as easy as a savory cake.
During the winter months, the over-21 crowd should also take advantage of Bavarian World’s hot mulled wine. It tastes like cider with only the slightest alcoholic bite.
The place does have a downside – it’s a bit pricey. Two meals, including two glasses of the hot mulled wine, ran toward $45 – a bit more than the chain restaurants would charge.
But it all comes back to Bavarian World’s atmosphere. It’s a perfect date restaurant because of its clumsy elegance, unique food and sadly unrecognized status. The charm alone will draw converts.
Bavarian World
595 Valley Rd.
Reno, NV 89512
(775) 323-7646
Read a menu online at www.bavarianworldreno.com
Hours of operation: Tuesday-Saturday 8 a.m.-8:30 p.m.
Nick Coltrain can be reached at editor@nevadasagebrush.com